Cappuccino Thoughts 57: On Jazzy, Joyful, Just Above Freezing January
Bookstores! Ballet! Buckets of coffee!
I will join the legions of people who noted that this January felt about 65 weeks long and thank goodness it’s finally February. That said, there were lots of fun things keeping me going in the city last month that may bring you joy this month as well.
Bookstores:
I’ve now seen 45/54 bookstores in Manhattan (subtracting for bookstores that didn’t really sell books or are just major chains). This month I added to my repertoire Rizzoli on Broadway, which does have a few locations and isn’t unique to Manhattan. It has a stunning selection of art books. I also stopped by Book Off in Midtown, which, sadly, I would not recommend. The Bookstore of the Department of City Planning (why does this exist??) has apparently moved locations and is now appointment-only. Never fear, I will make an appointment soon. These don’t count for my bookstore tally as they are in Brooklyn, but I really enjoyed the used bookstore Unnameable Books, and I checked out the new location of Ripped Bodice. I am not a romance reader (no shame, just not my thing) so the books didn’t speak to me, but I loved seeing the girlies having fun.
Food:
Friend of the newsletter M. took me to NR on the Upper East Side after she read my neighborhood guide and declared me terribly remiss for not including this Japanese bar. Reader, I apologize for my grave error and highly recommend adding this unique spot on your next sojourn. The drinks are funky (think hojicha, or a golden kiwi lassi cocktail) and the food is too (mussels with beer and cotton candy, which we ate and survived). I also went to Portrait Bar not once, but twice, this month after discovering this spot hidden in the back of a hotel. It has a stunning interior and a hostess named Caprice. What more could you want? We finally checked out a Greek restaurant on our street, Eleni’s, which was lovely and made even my Turkish partner happy. My visiting friend K. and I had a bit of a crisis at Barney Greengrass when the signs everywhere said cash only and we realized we had nary a dime on us. After two failed trips to the bank (one of which resulted in an eaten credit card, rip) we finally figured out you can pay with a card on weekdays only (?!). Drama aside, the nova lox, egg, and onion on a bialy was next level. My rivals at the New Yorker call it the best breakfast sandwich in New York.
Also ranked the best in the city, Chocolate Room in Park Slope had some seriously next-level hot chocolate that revived K. and me on our cold city tour. Absolutely worth a trip. Au Za’atar is a Lebanese spot in the East Village that is a solid choice for a Friday night. And the month ended with a very special treat at Le Coucou. A generous family member invited us to celebrate some exciting news and I literally hopped on the first train out of Connecticut following a weekend visiting my grandparents to make it in time for our reservation. It is ludicrously expensive but truly out of this world. No wonder it was a favorite spot of Anna Delvey’s.
Culture:
The highlight of the month had to be the premiere of Tiler Peck’s ballet piece Concerto for Two Pianos. Tiler Peck is the longtime star of the New York City Ballet and she made her choreographic debut at NYCB with this piece. By a stroke of luck, visiting friend C.’s only request was to go to the ballet which happened to be on the same day the show opened. Two pianists played on grand pianos in the orchestra (hence the name) and the ballerinas wore majestic costumes by Zac Posen. It was a magical night, where we saw not one, but two prima ballerinas. Tiler Peck came onstage at the end to take her bow, and we also saw her greeting friends and family in the lobby after the performance. And, while picking up our tickets, we saw ABT’s star Isabella Boylston getting tickets at will call to support her peer. I was completely awestruck. I’ve been taking adult ballet classes for the last year, and, while I’m still working on a proper plié, it’s given me even more of an appreciation for the art and sport of ballet. I urge you to see this show, which ends this week. For my young readers, the NYCB offers $30 tickets for people under 30 the week of, so try your luck this week.
I had been dying to see the recording of Fleabag the play—the one-woman show by Phoebe Waller-Bridges that became the TV show. B. and I went to see it at one of its limited shows. I’ll say it was definitely impressive to see the creator act every single part and to see how it evolved from play to TV, but it’s better to rewatch season 1 of the show.
My girl gang went to see Mean Girls, the Musical, the movie, and it was alright. Fun with a group but again, just go watch the original. Renee Rapp was great though.
F. and I saw Little Shop of Horrors off-Broadway starring Evan Rachel Wood and Darren Criss. It’s always so impressive to me when dramatic actors also just happen to be amazing singers. Both stars were very impressive and the crowd went crazy for (San Francisco native, it must be said) Darren Criss. It’s a very weird story but, as F. said, just a fun, lighthearted Friday night, as much as carnivorous plants can be fun.
S. and I caught (another SF native) Ruth Asawa’s show at the Whitney on the closing day. I had to text a friend from elementary school to confirm we did in fact meet her when she was still alive and we were little children. She has a big presence in SF and a public arts school is rightfully named for her. It was a good exhibit but I think she’s hard to present well because of her medium and forms and the de Young in SF does a better job.
I have to give a shoutout to my friend M. who surprised me with a tea bus tour. If you live in NYC, I’m sure you’ve seen those giant pink buses rolling around. The whole thing was a feast for the senses—the bus is decked out in pink feathers and sparkly details, they serve a full tea service, the guides point out NYC landmarks (I did laugh when they pointed out Grand Central Station, which I had already raced through three times that day. Though I did learn the clock face is the largest piece of Tiffany glass in the world and the red 6 at the bottom opens up so someone can get in and clean it), and just to top it all off—the guide breaks into song. A fun and silly afternoon.
K. and I stumbled into a gallery opening at the Swiss Institute of Tschabalala Self’s work Bodega Run. I’m not sure if it’s still up, but if it is, give it a look. I loved the multi-textural, multi-dimensional quality of the work, especially the highly relatable depiction of New Yorkers dashing with a couple bucks in their hand to pick up the randomest of bits and bobs from the nearest bodega.
Have you heard of Culture Pass from the New York Public Library? I’m sure it also works for my Brooklyn friends and their library cards. You can book free tickets at a long list of cultural institutions around the city. Sometimes the wait is long, but it’s a great way to see a new spot. I used it this weekend at the Museum of Arts and Design.
On the retail front, I had to join the flock of young ladies heading to C.O. Bigelow to check out the headbands Carolyn Bessette Kennedy apparently used to wear. I did not acquire anything, but I did enjoy the lighting fixture that is also in an Edward Hopper painting that was on display at the Whitney exhibit last year.
I also admired the wares at Salter House and John Derian, though they were squarely out of my home budget. I did pick up a $20 pair of vintage shoes that amazingly fit my [size redacted] feet at Beacon’s Closet in Park Slope. I also flipped through a surprisingly good selection of clothes at Tokio 88 in the East Village.
Coffee:
Another well-caffeinated month. Arabica always seems to have the best real estate. (I’ve seen it in the coolest neighborhood in Singapore and a covered passage in Paris) and its DUMBO location is no exception. Do Not Feed Alligators pairs its ridiculous name with ridiculously attractive staff who are also ridiculously bad at their jobs (I say affectionately) and managed to practically hurl a croissant at my poor friend K. who must be traumatized by NYC at this point, but it all seems to be part of the West Village vibe. Caffe de Martini is everything a cafe should be. And I narrowly avoided starting a new war while at Coppola Cafe when I brought my Italian friend A. thinking it was an Italian spot, and then the waiters made me guess where they were from. I said Serbia and they turned out to be Albanian. Oops and mi dispiace / më vjen keq (I’m sorry!).
Updates on the bag project
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Look of the week
This young girl was having so much fun trying on all the ballet core apparel in sight. She has fully embraced Barbie pink. A moment for the bows she is wearing on her eyelashes.
What’s on the bedside table
For a New York newsletter, San Francisco is getting a lot of love this edition. I absolutely devoured this book set in the golden city in about two days. The protagonist is Vera Wong, a grandma who runs a teahouse in SF’s Chinatown. When a dead body mysteriously shows up on the doorstep of her run-down store, she decides to solve the murder. Along the way she develops relationships with a rag-tag group of people who are also her lead suspects. I am so glad it is currently being optioned as a TV show. Would recommend for fans of Anxious People by Frederik Backman or anyone who needs a silly and heartwarming tale.
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This week I will be going to a Vintage Fashion Expo and touring my best friend (aka my mom) around this wonderful city.
If you liked this issue, hit that like button or leave me a comment! It’s really helpful for me to understand what you all want more or less of.
👜Upper East Side Neighborhood Guide
The Chocolate Room also has great chocolate cake. Though with a name like that they really should.
I met the guy who drives the tea bus a few months ago while I was interviewing people in Bryant Park. He said he really loved his job.